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| Big Four-Dry Creek Route
6160-ft |
March 4, 2006
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| A few weeks after our climb of Big Four, Paul Klenke and group climbed Bedal Peak and took
some photos. Thanks for this Photo Paul! It made my day. You can go
to his Bedal TR here. |
Jason, Josh and Phil
STORY: Jason
Yesterday I went and skied
Big Four. My brother and I left Tacoma at 4 in the morning (because
it is such an appropriate number...four) to meet Phil in Seattle.
From there to the parking lot we talked about the climb. I had convinced
Phil to go the night before by telling him that "I just
want to go look at the mountain." He wasn't a fool though.
Late the previous night he agreed to partake in my foolishness.
Like Sky says, "Don't be stupid but sometimes you have
to be in order to get anything done." Sky has a great
way of putting things, but he's no fool either. Both his and my
philosophy has always been to go and see what there is. Don't guess.
Don't think. But go and see. My guess would be that |
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| The approach was a nice stroll. |
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| Phil looking down at Jason who is climbing
up the headwall at the top of the Dry Creek Route. Photo: Phil Fortier. |
avi danger was high and that any snow
on top would be buffeted off. What I found wasn't quite different.
What it was was right within my comfort zone, which is all that
matters. I was comfortable with my decisions.
The approach is a joke. We skated along
two miles of road and maybe a mile of trail before putting skins
on. Along the way it snowed; some of the flakes were truly massive!
My hopes of seeing the mountain were obscured by the same clouds
from which that snow fell, but I didn't need to see it just yet.
Like Phil said while looking at Big Four that morning (the Big
Four we couldn't see a lick of), "It looks really filled
in, no cliff bands at all."
To which I added, "Yeah, its
a total joke. Powder day."
Another mile brought us to the Ice Caves.
This isn't a place to dally. We quickly skirted another mile around
the mountain to the base of the Dry Creek Route. Here the climbing
finally begins (It always feels good to finally start up).
A rightward slanting couloir leads through cliffs that would otherwise
block the entire face. The snow inside was bad, full of frozen
ice balls.
A traverse leads from the top of the couloir over to the base
of the upper couloir. The snow here was powder on top of a soft
crust. I would have stopped here if the slope was any steeper
and if the cliffs above didn't keep it cleaned off. We didn't
see anything fall down, but it is a place made to generate falling
shit. Again we didn't dally.
At the base of the couloir, which rises some 2000-ft, I finally
felt comfortable. I had no idea how steep it would be, so when
I saw that it was pretty moderate and full of incredible powder,
I couldn't have been more excited. Josh and Phil led the skin
track until it became too steep. We were about to quit there because
the snow was just too deep. The sluff track on the right side
of the couloir was harder and the powder wasn't wind affected.
It is very protected from both sun and wind. So I continued onward
and upward. I couldn't believe our luck. I climbed up the entire
couloir until near the bottom of the upper headwall. This is where
the real fun began.
The headwall is several hundred feet high and steep. Phil took
over for me part of the way up and was kind enough to unlace my
axe. The snow was very hard here. I would've put on crampons,
but Josh was using the heel piece from his crampon for his binding.
Earlier he had traded his for his powder skis and forgot to replace
it. We nearly returned home that morning when at the last second
Phil thought of the quick fix, which worked out great except for
the hassle it would take to reverse the process. I chipped good
steps for him where ever Phil had kicked up the slope. With an
axe I felt comfortable and enjoyed the climb.
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| Phil Fortier in the couloir. |
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| We skied down the left side of this
photo. |
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| Josh finally completes the final traverse. |
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| The last few feet were incredible. |
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At the top Phil continued to the ridge.
I yelled at him, "So, does it go?" He said
that it didn't. To my right was a steep traverse, so I continued
traversing across the face until I could mount the ridge. I was
exhausted by that point. There was enough room to sit and break
comfortably.
I looked over the side and Josh saw me and yelled, "So,
does it go?"
I looked up and wasn't sure. I looked over the ridge at him again
and hollered, "It goes!"
When they both arrived we took a much needed break. It's funny
that the climbing only bothers us because we are thinking about
its skiability. Does it go? It runs through our heads a thousand
times. Does it go? Does it go? I climbed up the ridge without
my pack and scouted it. The climb was doable. The skiing was questionable.
I told Phil, "I don't want to climb this piece of crap
again. If it doesn't go, we'll downclimb a few sections. Heck,
we have a rope. C'mon."
I let Phil take the lead since I was
worn out from the couloir and traverse. With some pushing he finished
off the last traverse. As soon as he was done he leans over. I
(of course) holler, "Does it go?"
His response was music to my ears, "The
summit is ours!"
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Yep. It doesn't
get any more incredible than that. |
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Josh and I finished off the traverse
and climbed to the top. It's pretty flat up there; the only place
on this mountain! We didn't break long. We were so excited to
be on top of this bad boy. We put our skis on and skied down to
the ridge. I've never had so much butterflies on a 20 degree slope.
Below us is the 4000-foot north face, something I no longer have
aspirations to ski.
The first traverse was the most difficult part of the route. In
corn snow conditions the ski wouldn't be bad. I just don't see
the whole thing being filled in, especially the lower section,
the upper headwall and ridge, in spring. In my opinion, this is
only skiable during a good winter, and no matter how you look
at it, Big Four is a risky place to be.
I skied across
the traverse first. I found very hard snow with an inch of crust
on top. It didn't look bad but it felt bad. Within several feet
I reached the ridge again and powder. I told the others to be
safe and take it slow.
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Phil taking
his time side stepping. The snow here looks soft,
but is only fluff over concrete. |
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Josh led the ridge
down to the next traverse. There were a few very steep steps,
but none were long. There wasn't room to turn with exposed terrain
to either side. I led the next traverse which brought us to the
top of the headwall. After the traverse I finally had room to
make a few turns, but when I got down to hard snow I traversed
to the far right side of the face. The snow gripped well. The
edges bit in and you could hear every inch they moved. It felt
like ice skating. I really wanted to get some photos because the
layout was so cool, but I didn't. When I was near the far side
of the face I worried that the last roll would be too steep, but
I knew from looking up at it earlier that it should go (looking
up at something isn't always a good indicator though). There
were a few steep flutes and a couple exciting turns here.
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You can't
see it, but I can assure you there's a smile on his
face. Photo: Phil Fortier |
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Jason nearing
freedom. Photo: Phil Fortier |
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Looking
up the headwall. You can see Phil in the center and
Josh further to the right. |
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At the bottom: POWDER. Poof! Phil was
next, and when he got to the powder he didn't stop for a third
of the couloir. It was that good. I couldn't believe it. My legs
were so tired, I downhilled most of it. Even then, I'm embarrassed
to admit, it was good. Huge cliffs on either side and on such
a great mountain, I was ecstatic. The hardest part was over. Now
for the reward. Time to go get it.
Poof!
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Time for
our reward. Powder. Poof! |
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After we reached the bottom, we traversed
to the second couloir and skied down to the flats. Our legs were
shot and the snow in the second couloir was a nightmare to ski.
Fortunately it's not very steep. We took a break before traversing
past the ice caves again and back to the trailhead. From there
we could now look up and see Big Four. It looked glorious. Wow!
While looking up Phil chimes in, "Man, we're pussies."
We skate skied to the car, ate food at Granite Falls and drove
home. Fourteen hours roundtrip (because 4 is a great number).
Here's Phil's great Trip Report: BIG
FOUR MOUNTAIN
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