Wonderland
Trail
August 29-31, 2003

Ben
filming a wonderland on a late hazy afternoon.
Photograph:
Josh
3
Days-62hours
93
miles, 24000 vertical (up and down!)
Story
By: Josh Hummel
WHO:
Ben Manfredi and Josh Hummel
Ben wanted to “...keep busy and not waste a whole lot of time
sitting around....” The Wonderland trail in three days seemed
to be the cure to his worries. Ninety-odd miles (Some books say
as much as 100 miles) and about 24,000 vertical feet up and dare
I say DOWN. By the end of the trip, “down” would be
the most wretched, outright despicable four letter word you could
ever say to me.
The
plan was to start Friday at Longmire. We left my place in Tacoma
at 3:30am. We reached the Indian Henries parking lot just above
Longmire at 5am. The parking lot was as full as a bar on Monday
morning. Only the hard cores were out. Before we left we weighted
in our packs. Ben’s came in at a mere 25 pounds. Mine was
nearly 35 pounds. By 5:30am we were on our way.
We
saw only a few people all day on the entire trail and only a couple
of consequence. They were two women on their sixth day. One of them
had hurt her knee and run out of IB Profin. They were headed in
the opposite direction as us. I offered her four of mine and then
we were gone. I would later discover the saying, “what comes
around goes around,” in more ways than one. There were many
miles to cover so we left with few words.
Ben,
who had attempted this trail a couple of times chose to do Longmire
to Mowich lake first. His reasoning was that this is the hardest
section and not wise to be saved for last. I had no arguments. The
first 20 miles was alright. The next 15 to Mowich lake did not feel
too pleasant. The sights were amazing. We cruised right through
Indian Henrey’s down to the Tahoma drainage.
The
bridge across the Tahoma deserves mentioning. It is a suspension
bridge, narrow and wobbly, high off the ground with a view that
does not go away until you reach the top of the next ridge, and
the next, and the next. The views never go away. This day would
bring many beautiful sights as would the others.
It
was still morning as we worked our way up Emerald ridge. We took
a break at the top, our first. About 15 minutes later we were off
again. At this time I still felt OK, but not at the top of my game.
I had not worked out, or planned, or prepared for this trip in anyway.
To tell the truth, I had climbed little recently, and had sacrificed
much of my winter and spring to work. So I was not too surprised
when my legs began to hurt as I worked my way up Emerald ridge barely
a third of the way through the first day. Pathetic would be an understatement.
Our
first break on Emerald Ridge.
Photograph:
Ben

Josh
on Emerald Ridge.
Photographer:
Ben
Our
next stop would be Saint Andrews park. A beautiful highland meadow
with a small lake, but after a long dry summer now just a mere pond
with some frogs. Ben and I had brought little food. You’d
think that we would have a dozen energy bars, gu, and several dehydrated
meals. The truth is 80% of our food revolved around a loaf of wheat
bread, Land-O-Frost sliced ham, and Kraft singles cheese. We had
no stove or tent, and about 80 miles ahead of us.
After
the North and South Puyallup drainages and Saint Andrews park it
was nearly all downhill. The next section I was fairly familiar
with. I had biked up the West Side road to the North Puyallup drainage.
I had also spent many a winter and spring day skiing the Silver
Forest and the Colonnade (a ridge that stretched high up onto Rainier)
by the Golden Lakes. One time my brothers, parents, and I had gotten
permission to use several of the Mt. Rainier ranger cabins. We had
linked the Mt. Tahoma Scenic Ski hut to hut system to the Rainier
cabins. At one point the Tahoma hut to hut system had a yurt just
out side of the park a mile from Golden Lakes. A great winter access
point to that side of the park. Champion(logging company and owner
of the land) later made access difficult and the hut was removed.
The
Silver Forest is the remnants of an old forest fire. Huckleberries
are everywhere. On the way down to Golden Lakes we passed a group
of hikers. At this point we took some photos. Eventually, we found
ourselves just behind the Golden Lakes ranger cabin taking our third
and next to last break of the day. The lake was packed with campers
and there were even some people swimming.

Ben
entering the Silver Forest just above Golden Lakes.
Photographer:
Josh

Josh
on his way to Golden Lakes.
Photographer:
Ben

Josh
at Golden Lakes.
Photographer:
Ben
After
another ham and cheese sandwich we were off again. Unfortunately,
in our hurry to get started we headed in the wrong direction. On
our second time around we read the trail sign and trotted on down
to the North and South Mowich drainages.

Ben
posing in front of the Mowich Glacier.
Photographer:
Josh
Ben
was a little worried here. Last time he had to take his shoes off
to cross the river. I was hoping this time we would not have too.
To my relief there were bridges across all of the forks. At first
glance I swore I was going to get wet. The bridges were scattered
up and down the river and some were barely hanging on.
Next
we came to the North Puyallup. In-between there is a camp and a
shelter. The North Puyallup had two old broken down bridges with
two new ones well on there way to being build. At the last bridge
we took a well deserved break. The 30 odd switchbacks down the last
hill wore on the feet. After a good soak we were on our way again.
Next stop, Mowich Lake and rest. 2300 feet and 3.8 miles later we
were finally there. Question was, should we go farther? I did not
really want to camp at Mowich Lake. Too many people. After dipping
the feet in the lake and another ham and cheese sandwich it was
bed time. Ben slept right on the picnic table while I took the dusty
ground. Not the best camp, but it worked. As darkness fell so did
I into that oblivion called sleep.
At
a bit passed 5am the next morning we were up. By 5:30am we were
gone, but not so fast. I caused no raised eyebrows at the pace I
was going, not that there was anyone around to see. Soon to my relief
my legs began to cooperate again with the addition of IB Profin
to the blood stream. This next section I liked a lot. The first
view was at Itsut Pass just as the sun came up. Ben filmed a short
clip as I worked my way down to Itsut Camp turnoff. The only sight
worth mentioning in this section besides the brush is the trees.
Along this section you will see the largest Alaskan Cedars in the
World. Some as old as 1200 years.

The
first downhill after Mowich Lake.
Photographer:
Ben
The
next sight on the list was the Carbon Glacier. It is the lowest
glacier in the contiguous United States. As always we filled up
our Camel Packs at any creek or spring that looked good. Most of
the time we added Iodine, but not always. By the end of the trip
I used lemonade mix. We drank about 3 quarts a day so the Lemonade
was a change for the good. The suspension bridge across the Carbon
made for a good view of the glacier. Next we continued uphill all
the way to Moraine park and then Mystic Lake, which is by far the
most beautiful highland lake on the entire Wonderland Trail.

Carbon
River bridge.
Photographer:
Ben
Here we again soaked our feet and ate a ham and cheese sanwich and
the 25 minutes we spent there seemed like hours. The warm sand,
soft grass, enchanting views, and the monotonous waves lapping upon
the beach made it hard to leave. Time was short and so we departed
our minds relaxed and our bodies refreshed. The hike down to Winthrop
glacier was pleasant and like the Carbon the Winthrop Glacier was
right in your face. I even stopped to take a couple of pictures
in the middle of the debris field.

Ben
soaking his foot and analysing the damage.
Photographer:
Ben
Our
next obstacle was Skyscraper Ridge. It was a long steep hike up,
but the views at the top would prove worth it. We took a break and
yet again ate a ham and cheese sandwich. After some photos we headed
across to Sunrise and another very short break. From here it would
be downhill for a long, long ways. My legs still hurt to this day,
four weeks later due to this and the following downhill. The next
dozen miles or so we encountered many people who had ventured from
Sunrise, but very few others. I even saw wheel chair tracts far
from sunrise.

Ben
admiring the views.
Photographer:
Josh

Josh
resting after a long uphill push.
Photographer:
Ben
Soon
we made it to White River campground and a well deserved break.
The use of the faucet was the best part. At this point we got the
most questions asked by tourist. We had to be a funny sight sitting
in the dirt next to the faucet, uncaring, with our shoes off, chilling.
Soon we had to go. There were still a lot of miles to cover and
it was getting late.
During
this next section we would try to hike as far as we could before
dark. We would not reach Summerland though. We ended up a few miles
short, but found a nice campsite next to the White River. After
eating our sandwiches we soon fell asleep with little talk.

Dinner
time.
Photographer:
Ben

Josh
eating dinner. Ham and bread again, man...
Photographer:
Ben
Day
three would test my will power. Yet again I had a little trouble
walking, but my ski poles acted as second legs. I eventually forgot
the pain and continued on. I would only stop when I finished. My
knees hurt and I had no IB Profin left. I bummed two off of Ben
and hoped for the best. My knees had taken a beating the day before
and they refused to work for the rest of the trip.
With
our annual trips up to Little Tahoma skiing we were very familiar
with everything nearly all of the way to Pan Handle Gap. We had
skied several routes off Meany Crest, some direct and some not.
I did not stop at Summerland, but continued on several hundred vertical
feet to were we had closer access to a clean creek. Towards Pan
Handle we saw a couple of Mountain Goats and only two people. Besides
Sunrise (hundreds of people), we only saw a couple dozen or so people
during the whole hike and usually in groups.

Ben
getting ready to rest just above Summerland.
Photographer:
Ben

The
first break of the day at Summerland.
Photogragher:
Ben

A
Marmot watching Ben, or Ben watching the Marmot.
Photographer:
Ben
About
15 minutes later we were off. Soon we were at the top of Panhandle
Gap the highest point of the trip at some 6,750 feet and our first
encounter with snow. I enjoyed this section for its views and after
Pan Handle something I had not done before. I had never ventured
down to Indian Bar. The view of the serpentine creek, lush valley,
and solitary cabin were breathtaking.

Josh
on his way to Pan Handle Gap.
Photographer:
Ben

Indian
Bar on the last day.
Photographer:
Ben
At
Indian Bar we met up with a Ranger. My knees hurt so bad and then
this Ranger comes up and pesters me. I sent him Ben’s way
after I stumbled through a few sentences. I had no wish to converse
with a Ranger. Their conversations usually center around permits
and regulations. I hike and climb to get away from such things.
We left soon after with bellies full of water and fresh pairs of
socks on our feet.
The
hike up to the top of the Cowlitz Divide took no time at all. The
ridge never did really end for a couple of miles though. When it
did, the downhill was excruciating. To my amazement and relief we
passed the two women we had met at the beginning of the trip a few
miles below Indian Henry’s. The conversation went something
like this. “How are you doing,” and with only a little
humor slipping into to my voice I said, “well it is my knees
that hurt this time around.” Molly, I believe her name was
said, “I picked up some IB Profin at Longmire if you want
some.” With more than relief creeping into my voice I said,
“Yes,” without sounding too desperate. She gave me six
and I used them all before the end of the day. We talked for about
10 minutes about the highlights of our trips and then parted ways.
Like I said above, "what comes around goes around,” and
so it did.

Almost
there, but a lot of downhill left.
Photographer:
Ben
Eventually,
we made it to the Box Canyon parking lot. During some point here
I lost my sunglasses that I had for some 4 years. After a sandwich
and some water we left. Box Canyon was pretty cool. It was a tight
deep gorge with small waterfalls and deep holes. With any flowing
creek or river though we now look at them as we do all mountains,
i.e. skiable? Or with water, kayakable? Probably not, but maybe.
Next,
the hike up to Reflection Lakes. This was quite a uphill trudge,
but not too bad. Uphill did not bother me, only the downhill. I
met up with Ben at the Reflection lakes, but continued on to a bench
under some trees overlooking the lake. Three minutes later I was
off again. The end was near, but ALL downhill. I suffered all of
the way, but I was going to make it. Ben ate blue berries like a
kid does candy on a Holoween night and mozied his way all of the
way to the car.

Reflection
lakes with Mt. Rainier in the background.
Photographer:
Ben
I
saw Ben once more with blueberry stains all over his lips and hands
at Narada Falls, one of the largest at 168 feet. He soon left and
I would later see him at the end, the car. He had no knee problems
and so cruised the downhill. I was not so lucky. Just before 8pm
I made my way to the car in high spirits, but my knees hurt like
none other. I dropped off my pack into the back of the car and began
the hour and a half drive home. We had made it and I was happy.
The end, or was it.
On
the way home we stopped at Mcdonalds. I was not too sure I would
eat so I turned off the car and relaxed, but then changed my mind.
I then left the car locking it with the automatic door lock out
of habit. After ordering my meal I realized that I had left my keys
in the ignition. Not too bright. The Mcdonalds was now closed, as
in locked, I couldn’t really walk, and we had no phone, and
no one to call. Ben felt he could break in though....with a stick.
Yea, you heard me right, a stick! The only way I could think of
doing that with just a stick was bashing a window in. We did it
though with no damage to my Ford Explorer. We pulled on the door,
shoved a stick through and pushed on the automatic door lock. The
stick though was a problem. We were surrounded by cement and only
a few small saplings encased in, you got it, cement. With a look
to the right and a look to the left and ignoring the cameras we
broke first one (the first not long enough), and then a second branch.
I felt like a criminal breaking into my car and vandalizing shrubbery.
With
the trip at an end we had done some 100 odd miles and 25,000 verticle
gain and loss in about 62 hours, averaging 1.5 miles an hour (93miles/62hours)
counting sleep. Not bad having slept at least 9 odd hours a night.
Ben still felt he could do it in a day, though he admitted that
he would not feel too well afterward. He had already tried and failed
once. Before leaving we weighed ourselves, Ben and I had lost about
7 pounds each. A great weight loss plan, but not one I would recommend.
Overall, the trip was memorable, beautiful, and so why do it in
three days? Well as Ben said, we needed to “...keep busy and
not waste a whole lot of time sitting around....” We saw everything
at once and when I think back I do not have to think hard, because
it was weeks worth of adventure stuck into 62 odd hours. Another
Cascade Classic around the Wonderland and Mount Rainier, the Cascade
ranges crown jewel.
Alpine
State OF Mind.
Or CONTACT ME. If
you enjoyed your visit, tell us about it, go to the GUESTBOOK.
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